109 - Fast & Easy Sandpaper Sharpening, Prace w drewnie Woodworking, Woodsmith Plans
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FAST & EASY
SANDPAPER
SHARPENING
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
W
oodWorking
T
echnique
S
andpaper
S
harpening
Onceyoutrysharpeningwithsandpaper,youmightjustgiveuponother
methods.It’squick,inexpensive,andtheresultscan’tbebeat.
When it comes to putting a sharp
edge on a chisel or plane blade,
woodworkers have a lot of options.
But there’s one tried-and-true sharp-
ening technique I like that’s often
overlooked. This method involves
using sandpaper fixed to a piece of
glass as your honing “stone.” It gives
you a sharp edge in short order with-
out a big investment.
Why I LIke It.
Before we get into the
nitty-gritty, so to speak, let me tell
you why sharpening with sandpa-
per and glass is a favorite of mine.
First, the plate glass gives you a
large, flat, wide-open sur face to
work on. So unlike working on a
small stone, you’re not limited to
short back and forth strokes, and
the work goes much faster.
A second plus is the wide range of
sandpaper grits available for sharpen-
ing. Standard aluminum-oxide paper
is perfect for the coarse work at the
early stages. Then wet-or-dry silicon-
carbide paper (up to 2000-grit) takes
over to put a fine polish on the edge.
the setup.
Now, let’s look at the
setup I use, shown at the bottom
of page 2. At the heart is a piece of
1
⁄
4
"-thick plate glass. This can be
whatever size is handy, but mine
is 10" wide by 36" long. This gives
me room for two half-sheets of
sandpaper across the width and a
variety of grits along the length.
A large piece of glass lying around
the shop could easily get broken.
So I fastened the glass to a plywood
base. This makes it much easier and
safer to use, and to store.
sandpaper.
As I mentioned, I use two
types of sandpaper. A couple strips of
self-adhesive, aluminum-oxide paper
(80- and 180-grit) get me started. It
comes in rolls and has a nice, heavy
backing. The remaining space is
filled with four different grits of wet-
or-dr y silicon-carbide sandpaper
— 320-, 800-, 1500-, and 2000-grit.
This gives you a steady progression.
A light coat of spray adhesive holds
this sandpaper to the glass.
a razor-sharp edge.
With the sand-
paper in place, you’re ready to go.
Set the sharpening platform on
the benchtop, clamp it between the
dogs, and grab a chisel or plane iron
that needs attention.
FIrst, the Back.
Before honing
the bevel, you want to make sure the
back is flat and lightly polished
(left drawing). This is done using a
circular motion from the side of the
platform. At this point, I rely on 180-
grit to do the job. All I’m looking for
is an even scratch pattern.
honIng guIde.
Now, to work on the
bevel, I clamp the tool in a honing
guide. This simple helper holds
the blade at the exact bevel angle
{
Start with the Back.
Asharpedgerequiresbothaflat,
polishedbackandapolishedbevel.SoIstartsharpening
byworkingonthebackofthechiselblade.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
I’m after. I find it makes the work
go a lot faster and the results are
more consistent. The drawing at
right shows how to use the guide
notches I cut into the platform to set
the bevel angle. This gives me an
accurate setup in short order.
the BeveL.
The grit you start with
depends on the condition of the edge.
If it’s badly nicked or out of square
(upper photo in the margin), I’ll start
at the coarsest grit. Think of this as
the grinding stage. You can save time
and effort later by getting the hard
work done here. But if the bevel only
needs “touching up,” you can start
honing at a finer grit.
There’s no great secret to
the technique. Just lay the
guide and tool on the surface
of the sandpaper and take
long, back-and-forth strokes
(lower left photo). To keep
the work going quickly, con-
centrate the pressure near
the tip of the tool. I also like to
take advantage of the entire
honing surface by moving
the tool around. Finally, it’s a
good idea to keep the sand-
paper clean by brushing or
blowing it off regularly.
Move on.
When you see
a per fectly flat bevel and
a straight, nick-free edge,
you’re ready to move on. Simply
step up to the next grit and repeat the
same process. You’ve done the hard
work, and now you’re just making
finer scratches and a sharper edge.
Wet-or-dry.
When you get to the wet-
or-dry sandpaper, one thing changes.
This type of sandpaper cuts more effi-
ciently when lubricated with water.
So I like to have a spray bottle handy
to keep the sandpaper wet and cut-
ting fast (main photo on page 1).
At this point, the work goes quickly.
A minute or so at each grit does the
job. As the scratches get finer, you’ll
see the bevel shine brighter. At 800-
grit you’ll have a dull polish and a
a.
{
Thisedgeis
badlynicked
andthebevel
istooshallow.
{
No Guesswork.
Guidenotchesinthecorners
ofthesharpeningplatformmakesettingthe
honinganglepainlessandaccurate.
keen edge. For a lot of work, this
is probably good enough. But for a
mirror-like bevel with a “hair-splitting”
edge, keep going to 2000-grit.
When I’ve reached my stopping
point, I take the tool out of the hon-
ing guide for one final step. I finish
polishing the back of the chisel to
match the bevel. This ensures the
sharpest edge possible.
hoW Long?
My sharpening goal is
to get the job done as fast as
possible. And on that score, this
method is a winner. If you make it
a point to replace the sandpaper
when it starts to wear, you’re talking
a few minutes from start to finish.
That’s not bad in my book.
W
{
Butashort
whilelater,
itlookslikea
newchisel.
{
Long, back-and-forth strokes with
firmpressureonthetipwillquickly
flattenthebevelandremovenicks.
ALL-IN-ONE SHARPENING PLATFORM
Here’s how to put a sharpening platform
together. First, ask a glass supplier to
cut you a piece
1
⁄
4
"-thick plate glass and
soften the edges. Next, use rabbeted
cleats to fasten the glass to a
3
⁄
4
" plywood base,
as shown in the drawing below. This
makes the glass easier to manage. A
couple of angled notches in the cor-
ners of the base act as set-up guides for
sharpening. Finally, a hang hole in the
end makes storage easy.
a.
{
Nibble Away Waste.
Atallfenceatt
a
ched
tothemitergaugeallowsyoutocutthe
“guide”notchesintheplywoodbase.A
handsawcouldbeusedtodothejob.
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
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